Girl in Florence

A Tuscan Texan immersed in Florentine life

arezzo antique fair: photo by Georgette Jupe

39 Photos To Inspire A Visit To Arezzo’s Antique Fair

Facebook
Twitter
LinkedIn
Pinterest
WhatsApp
Email
Print

Even if you hate antiques, it’s impossible to dislike the monthly antique fair in Arezzo. Long ago, when I was climbing through wooden skeletons of houses on the outskirts of San Antonio. Playing hide and seek in pretty dangerous places went par for the course. During the days when ‘go play outside’ was obligatory in a young person’s childhood, I use to scoff at anyone who used old stuff to decorate their homes. In Texas, the shabby chic theme we see so much today has always been in style. Maybe it’s the access to really rusty things, or wooden objects that would so comfortably fit an Texas flag. I just wasn’t into any of it. I vowed that one day I would leave Texas and live a glamorous life in NYC, going to parties and holding the stems of my cosmopolitan glass with relative ease. And it when it came to my future house, let’s just say Barbie’s dream house had nothing on what I was going to do. I guess you could say I’m a bit of a dreamer, until I got off my ass and decide the doer part was pretty necessary too.

Now, almost 15 year’s later I find myself cooing at anything even slightly rustic. Italy has a way of making you appreciate relics of the past, well except the ones glorifying Mussolini. While I far from anything even slightly resembling a housewife, I do have ideas on how I want our home to look at it often includes a few, poignant pieces. Sort of like the antique pharmacy drawers you can find in one of my favorite artisan perfumery shops in Florence, the seductive Aqua Flor. So off we were, one Saturday morning, Nico, our friend Nancy in tow, to the town of Arezzo in Tuscany to check out the antique fair. This is embarrassing to admit, but I’ve never actually visited this famous town that lies only an hour from Florence, surrounded by four valleys.

I may have seen the damn palio della balestra in Sansepolcro, discovered one of the best restaurants in the outskirts, but somehow Arezzo proper has eluded us. It’s an elegant town, rich from a history of gold-smiths, the medieval town center was heavily destroyed during WWII. Check out this great read from The Telegraph about it. Unfortunately, many travelers skip Arezzo on the Tuscany route despite its perfection as a base for the Casertino valley in favor of the very touristy San Gimignano, Siena or Cortona. 

My advice is to come during the first Sunday of every month (and the previous Saturday), when the antique fair takes place. This is the biggest antique fair in Italy, dating back to 1968 and it is seriously cool. With over 500 sellers, around 20,000 visitors crowd Arezzo to haggle over the goods or simply just to soak in the atmosphere in the areas surrounding Corso Italia, Piazza San Francesco, Piazza Grande and the Logge del Vasari. I didn’t have overtly high expectations on actually buying anything but what I found was that this town was exactly what we needed. A break from Florence, all in order to embrace a little small town Tuscan life. You can also double it up with a visit to the thermal springs over at Rapolano Terme (which is what we did) and dinner in Castelnuovo Berardenga (more details below).

What can you get here? Well the pictures below paint a better idea than what I myself can explain but it’s essentially a beautiful mess of furniture, old china plate-wear, chandeliers, paintings, sketchings, maps, toys and much, much more. We picked up a few prints to hang in the house and had lunch at a cute restaurant ‘Osteria Mest’ recommended by the fine folks over at Italian Reflections on facebook.

Arezzo antique market grand entrance, in front of the Duomo cathedral
Arezzo antique market grand entrance, in front of the Duomo cathedral, think of all of the crap plates your MIL gave you that could fit in these cupboards!
On the main 'Corso' lies the chair version of 'the three musketeers.' I want them all.
On the main ‘Corso’ lies the chair version of ‘the three musketeers.’ I want them all.
Arezzo Antique Fair - Tuscany - Girlinflorence
You can find anything, and I mean anything, at this fair
Arezzo Antique Fair - Tuscany - Girlinflorence
A ‘leg up’ on your jewelry organization
Coffee stop at the elegant Caffe' Dei Costanti in front of the Basilica di San Francesco
Coffee stop at the elegant Caffe’ Dei Costanti in front of the Basilica di San Francesco
Arezzo Antique Fair - Tuscany - Girlinflorence
Not sure exactly what was going on here, but I am pretty sure they were choosing names for a competition taking place in Arezzo
Arezzo Antique Fair - Tuscany - Girlinflorence
The pulsating heart of corso Italia, and is that a Nico I see?
Arezzo Antique Fair - Tuscany- Photo credit: georgette Jupe
I’m pretty sure these are ancient coffee grinders, or maybe something a monkey pops out of
Arezzo Antique Fair - Tuscany- Photo credit: Georgette Jupe
Seems a bit dangerous to set plates on the street but what do I know?
Arezzo Antique Fair - Tuscany- Photo credit: Georgette Jupe
Eat your pinterest hearts out. I love these colorful knobs but never actually do anything with them
Arezzo Antique Fair - Tuscany- Photo credit: Georgette Jupe
A must stop is to see the incredible frescoes by Piero della Francesco, the 14th century Basilica of San Francesco is 8 euros to visit (or you can get a cumulative ticket) and you must see the ‘legend of the cross.’ Right now Piero’s frescoes are undergoing renovations until the 6th of March.
Arezzo Antique Fair - Tuscany- Photo credit: Georgette Jupe
You had me at ‘vintage brooch’
Arezzo Antique Fair - Tuscany- Photo credit: Georgette Jupe
I don’t have the house for these chandeliers but a girl can dream right?
Arezzo Antique Fair - Tuscany- Photo credit: Georgette Jupe
You can even pick u antique globes here, or puffy jackets ( I hope not)
Arezzo Antique Fair - Tuscany- Photo credit: Georgette Jupe
Nancy and Nico rifling through vintage postcards
Arezzo Antique Fair - Tuscany- Photo credit: Georgette Jupe
For who appreciates silver
Arezzo Antique Fair - Tuscany- Photo credit: Georgette Jupe
35 euros for an antique sardine fork, and I kind of wanted it.
Arezzo Antique Fair - Tuscany- Photo credit: Georgette Jupe
I’m guessing he went for the Queen album
Arezzo Antique Fair - Tuscany- Photo credit: Georgette Jupe
This could be my mother’s garage, and I love it!
Arezzo Antique Fair - Tuscany- Photo credit: Georgette Jupe
La Citta di Firenze in full glory
Arezzo Antique Fair - Tuscany- Photo credit: Georgette Jupe
This almost looks too perfectly laid out
Arezzo Antique Fair - Tuscany- Photo credit: Georgette Jupe
A pretty corner of the market — and yes you can sit on the furniture (I think)
Arezzo Antique Fair - Tuscany- Photo credit: Georgette Jupe
In front of the Basilica di San Francesco
Arezzo Antique Fair - Tuscany- Photo credit: Georgette Jupe
He is just too perfect not to photograph 😉
Arezzo Antique Fair - Tuscany- Photo credit: Georgette Jupe
Even Italian kids have better fashion sense then me
Arezzo Antique Fair - Tuscany- Photo credit: Georgette Jupe
At lunch, we dined next to the antique tables
Arezzo Antique Fair - Tuscany- Photo credit: Georgette Jupe
I actually heard the guy selling this table say out loud to a friend “I don’t understand why this hasn’t sold’. uhhhh
DSCF4920
Coin collections with the ex-lire and old books
DSCF4991
snack time 🙂
DSCF5053
Anyone need a new TV?
Arezzo Antique Fair - Tuscany- Photo credit: Georgette Jupe
Somewhere out there, a knight is naked
Arezzo Antique Fair - Tuscany- Photo credit: Georgette Jupe
Um not sure what to do with this but I kind of want to tickle his mustache
Arezzo Antique Fair - Tuscany- Photo credit: Georgette Jupe
An old washing machine from 1952. I thought it was a doll submarine
Arezzo Antique Fair - Tuscany- Photo credit: Georgette Jupe
I really hope those kids aren’t on Tinder yet

DSCF4986

DSCF5035
pappardelle with duck
DSCF5040
a new age millefoglie
DSCF5030
Our lunch spot, Mest Osteria under the arches in piazza grande is a nice choice for creative local cuisine
DSCF5034
A just baked flat bread with prosciutto, pecorino cream and some greens

 


Quick Tips

How To Get  There

Car: By car, it is only an hour to Arezzo, take the A1/E35 to Raccordo Arezzo – Battifolle in Arezzo. Take exit Arezzo from A1/E35. Continue on Raccordo Arezzo – Battifolle. Take Viale Gaetano Salvemini to Via Madonna del Prato in Arezzo. Or to wherever you want to park. It’s about a 9km drive from the highway to the city.

Train: Arezzo is just an hour by train from Florence on the ‘Roma’ line, and costs 8,40€ one way. From what I saw, there are about two trains per hour. Easy!

Parking

The entire list of parking options for the fair are listed here (in Italian) but we chose the 24/hourParcheggio Pietri (known as Scale Mobili to the Italians) which has a combination of free & paid parking (cheap) with access to the center by escalator. It’s about 400 meters from the fair. The address is Via Giuseppe Pietri, 52100 Arezzo AR but put in ‘Parcheggio Pietri’ in your GPS or google maps and you’ll find it :).

How Often Is The Fair?

The Fiera Antiquaria takes place the first Sunday of every month and the precedent Saturday. The ‘heart’ of the fair stems from piazza grande and surrounding streets that come alive during this weekend. For good deals, come early! As the good stuff goes away fast, but before closing time is probably the best time to get a discount.

Fun Options Nearby & A Great Restaurant

Visit the Terme! We went to Terma Rapolano — Tuscan hot springs resort, a 40 minute drive from Arezzo which is easy to do and fun if you don’t mind a deviation, there are two spas there, we went for Antica Querciolaia.

Combine that with a stop for dinner at La Taverna della Berardenga, a suggestion from one of Nico’s colleagues, in the tiny town of Castelnuovo Berardenga and you will thank me later. This simple trattoria is AMAZING, with the best roasted duck with thyme this girl has ever tasted. Get everything, and make a reservation. Address: Via del Chianti, 70/74, Castelnuovo Berardenga SI. Phone:0577 355547.

Roasted duck with thyme at the very awesome Taverna di Berardenga
Roasted duck with thyme at the very awesome Taverna di Berardenga

Related Posts

26 Responses

  1. Great story about a town I have had on my radar for quite a while now. Spending time there which coincides with the antique fair is a really good idea. Thankyou for the info and wonderful photos!
    I recently watched a 2010 French movie called Certified Copy with the wonderful Juliet Binoche and it was set in and around Arezzo. The area looks lovely!

    1. Ciao Paula! Thanks for read about it :). I really don’t know why it’s taken me so long to visit! I really could have been here all day! There was so much to see..

      I’ll have to check out the film you mentioned, I actually need to watch more French flicks! My learning so far is pretty slow going..

  2. Fantastic post. This came at opportune time as we are researching our 2 month adventure in Florence set for April& May 2017. This was on my list but now is a must do. Enjoying your blog emensely Georgette.

    1. Thanks Lorrie, I’m really happy to help! I definitely have more fun day trips and excursions to share with you guys! Anyone one enjoy this fair and Arezzo was a pleasant surprise as well!

  3. Doll submarine! There was a time early on here where I would have utilised that lavatrice!

    1. LOL It was the most bizarre thing I’ve seen, it must have fit like one outfit. But considering I don’t even have a dishwasher, I probably could have used it too 😉

  4. Love these pictures! It’s been ages since my last visit to Arezzo, where I actually went to university. We should plan another visit together 🙂

    1. Anytime Valentina! We discovered a really cool restaurant in Castelnuovo Berardenga that you and Mario would adore! We could go there for dinner after the fair <3

  5. Ciao Georgette,
    So happy you came down to my neck of the woods. Arezzo really is a lovely little city that hopefully will remain not as touristed as Siena or San Gimignano (Have you read what they are planning to do in the CT?). Anyway, you know me…just a few notes:
    The dates of the fair are always the FIRST Sunday of the month and the preceding Saturday. So technically it is not necessarily the first weekend of the month…(if the Saturday falls on a 30th or 31st).
    Osteria Mest – Good choice!
    The men in costume – This was actually the awards ceremony ( La ceremony di permission dei Giostratori) for the local jousters – those that perform in the twice a year jousting festival “La Giostra del Saracino”, held in June and September.
    Legend of the True Cross/Basilica di San Francesco – Not free. Entrance fee is 8 euros (reduced fare is 5euros) or if you want a combination ticket to also see the Vasari museum and a few others, it is 12 euros. Can’t remember what the reduced fare is. Probably 8 euros?). I think the Basilica and the frescoes are closed off now due to restoration, until late March or so?
    Will have to try La Taverna della Berardenga. Glad you had such a lovely day exploring the fair – there is always something interesting to see there! Have a great evening!

    1. Ciao Caterina, I had a lovely lovely time visiting and I need to go back again. Thanks so much for your notes, I really needed a local’s input and I was dying to know about that award’s ceremony. I am curious about the Basilica because we were able to visit for free? But perhaps that was a one off? In any case I’ll update the post. Taverna della Berardenga was a real find. I am still drooling over that duck

      1. First Sunday of the Month – free museum entrance…
        But I am surprised since they are restoring the frescoes…but maybe it is only M-F when they are working on them..?

        Also just saw what auto-incorrect did to my post. It should read ..”cerimonia di premiazione ”
        Duck is a good thing to drool over.
        p.s. saving your tips on Thailand (though perhaps a bit less romantic 😉 ) -taking my 2 boys this coming winter.

        1. Cool Caterina! Maybe we got lucky because of the restorations? In any case I am happy you cleared up the cost. I REALLy recommend that Taverna, it’s very rustic but the food is spot on and I liked the fact that it was filled with locals from the town. Always a good sign. Where abouts in Thailand will you be? I’d be happy to provide recommendations. I have one last post to write on a more hidden island we ended our trip in (Koh Yao Noi), one of the coolest places I’ve ever been and so much less crowded than crazy Phuket. 🙂

  6. Great coverage and photos! I’m fond of Arezzo, but have never been there during the fair. I think another well-timed trip is in order! Thanks for posting.

    1. Thanks Jacqueline! I appreciate you commenting. I was so blown away with how charming the town is and we want to go back to take advantage of the before dinner vibe..

  7. Great post, great blog – all helping me plan my month in Florence this June. Question: are you expected to haggle? Yes, I’m searching your blog for day trips, especially to vineyards. 🙂

    1. Gianna, thank you! From what I experienced, yes you can haggle, but obviously it depends on both the seller and the object. I actually am working on a post this week about a winery visit I did recently and will be covering Montalcino and Montepulciano in March so stay tuned!!!

  8. Fantastic post and awesome pics, is it bad that the ones that excite me the most are the food?! 🙂

  9. Ciao Georgette. I’m definitely going April 2 but I’m curious to know how late the vendors stay open. Do they start shutting down around the usual time of 1:00 p.m., or, since it’s obviously a big event, do they stay open until later in the day?

    1. Most vendors stay open all day for both the Saturday and Sunday. If the fair happens to coincide with other events or holidays, they often stay open late into the evening. They are all pretty spread out along the Corso Italia all the way up to the Duomo, into the Piazza Grande, and under the loggia and even down some of the side streets such as Via degli Albergotti.

  10. Hello does the antique weekend happen every month on the first Sunday and previous Saturday without fail. I was wondering if there is a period it does not take place.
    Thanks carmelina

Search
Georgette Jupe

Welcome to my personal blog by a curious American girl living and working between Zug, Switzerland and Florence, Italy with my husband Nico, our newborn Annabelle and Ginger the beagle. This space is primarily to share about my love for Italy (currently on a 13 year romance) with a fair amount of real talk, practical advice, travel suggestions and adjusting to a new culture (Switzerland). Find me on IG @girlinflorence @girlinzug

Instagram
FOLLOW ME
VIDEO
recent post
NEWSLETTER
CATEGORIES
Categories
Lonely Planet

Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Ut elit tellus, luctus nec ullamcorper mattis, pulvinar dapibus leo.