August typically coincides with the exodus of local Florentines. They flock to the seas, or mountains for a much due repose in the vacation atmosphere that surrounds Ferragosto, a national holiday that reminds us that yes, you can actually overeat during the hottest days of summer. Many shops/restaurants adjust their hours in Florence during this period so visitors can be disappointed easily if their favorite Osteria has decided to hang a “sono al mare” sign on their window until September 1st.
I don’t have to tell you but I’m going to tell you that this year that might not be the case. The ongoing coronavirus pandemic has ensured that not only is it harder to go on holiday when you’ve already taken yours during the lockdown, but you need funds too. Businesses are hurting tremendously right now so if you see them closed, it might not be because they’ve decided that a mountain escape was in order but because it might be too expensive for them to reopen with such a reduced number of guests. Basically they need your support. If you want to get straight to the list of restaurants to eat at in August 2020 in Florence, I won’t be insulted if you want to scroll on down.
Regarding tourism, while certainly not like the years past where any language but Italian permeated the city streets from mid-July to late August, there are people visiting from the EU or other areas of Italy.
So far, the one relief this summer was that for the most parts while it is/was hot it’s not nearly as the 100+ days of last year. However, as I type this, I see that the forecast is predicting a rather nasty heatwave to ring in August so let’s I didn’t just jinx the bearable summer vibes. Sorry!
Despite the lethargy and sweat-filled evenings August will bring, as I am ever the optimist, I will come up with my list of personal suggestions on what to do locally which will publish in a few days. We might be in Switzerland but Florence is home, and I’ll be back in the latter half of August to work on the new house and celebrate a treasured friend’s milestone birthday.
This year I turned 36 on July 13th and it’s been quite the time to be alive. We left our apartment of 7 years, found renters, bought a house and MOVED all in the same weekend (ok tack on a Monday). Thanks to Palazzo San Niccolo’s amazing garden space/Enotcea Vigna Nuova’s nibbles and drinks and some really good friends this birthday was one of the highlights of 2020.
Right now, we’re getting to know our new home in Zug, Switzerland. The lake is a few minutes from my house so I might not have any friends yet except for an odd gaggle of ducks and the quick “Grüezi” said by fellow dog owners but I do get to swim every day after work if I so please.
In honor of helping us all enjoy summer in Florence, here are a list of restaurants, divided by neighborhood, open during this period.
I emailed, send messages and called many of them personally this week to get the inside scoop on hours, so let’s hope they stay true to their word but know I did my best.
If you want to save everything to your phone, you will find a handy google map and a few links to like-minded posts across Italy. If you prefer to hold a piece of paper, click on the green share button on the top and bottom of each post and search through the options for the “Print-friendly” option where you can print this post for your trip.
Looking for a list of bars I adore in the city? Check out this [updated] list including a few new standout stars.
Duomo/Piazza della Repubblica/Piazza Signoria Area
- Osteria delle Tre Panche is an iconic Florentine restaurant with a menu based on truffles. This year they have teamed up with Hotel Hermitage located by the Ponte Vecchio on Vicolo Marzio, 1, 50122 Firenze FI, Italy. You can dine on their fabulous terrace with a spectacular view of the city but probably an even better meal. This is amazing. For reservations, call +39.055.287216.
- Osteria de’Cicalini is a stone’s throw from the Duomo cathedral on Via delle Oche. I absolutely adore their fresh, modern Mediterranean menu (think vegetable and delicate mouth-watering meat carpaccio and beautiful pasta (desserts here are a must) and they are open for both lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday. They will be closed this August from the 9th to the 18th. Keep in mind that every Thursday they are offering a fixed price 25€ menu with creative cocktails and tastings of their menu. Also, you can dine outside on Thursday, Friday and Saturday evening when the street closes to traffic (until September 30th)! address: Via delle Oche 15r, Florence, Italy 50122. Tel: +39 055 205 2610.
- Foody Farm is the sister location of Fishing Lab and they have moved to the Lungarno Corsini (near Ponte Santa Trinita). They are open this August from 12-2:30pm, 6:30pm-11pm.
- La Bussola, a contemporary bistro in the heart of the city, they are known for their pizza and various arrays of Italian favorites. I love the atmosphere as did my family when they were in town, though service can be hit or miss. They are open all of August per dinner only from 7pm. address: Via Porta Rossa, 58r, 50123 Firenze. Call +39 055 293376.
- Floret is an upmarket healthy restaurant, cafe and lounge space on the first floor of Luisa Via Roma’s terrace. It’s leafy urban garden vibe is a fresh alternative to many other stuffy places in the city so come here if poke and rose is what you are after. This August they are open daily, closed only August 16th. 11am-7:30pm. address: Via Roma, 19 r, 50123 Firenze FI. Tel: +39 055 295924.
Oltrarno neighborhood, from Pitti Palace to San Frediano
- Osteria della Enoteca: My favorite place to bring people for their first meal in Florence for a selection of superb Tuscan seasonal fare, a sumptuous steak menu and as always, one of the best wine lists in town. This IS MY GO TO PLACE when people visit as there is something here for everyone. A class act every single day. This August they will be closed from the 11th to the 19th otherwise open from Wednesdays to Mondays from 7:30pm. Keep in mind that Fridays you can dine also outside as Via Romana closes to traffic! Tel: + 39 055 228 6018.
- Serre Torrigiani is probably one of the highlight places for summer 2020 in that it is simply a stunning location (located in one of Florence’s largest and well-maintained private gardens). They are open from 6pm onwards daily and often feature live music, picnic style menus and more. I’m not a big fan of the food offerings here but it’s a great place to meet friends for drinks.
- Fermento 1889 is one of the best places for gourmet pizza in the city (personal opinion) and they will be open this August so I can die a happy woman. 1889 signifies the year of birth of Neapolitan pizza so you can expect to know what’s on the menu. Ask about their newest pizzas and don’t skip dessert. One word of advice: the space is very, very small so be sure to book ahead. Closed August 11-17th. Open 6:45pm-11pm, Tuesday-Saturday. address: Borgo S. Frediano, 16. Tel + 39 055 013 2367.
- Tamerò pizzeria tucked away on a small street behind Piazza Santo Spirito and is a great choice for small groups and families looking for a great pizza in the Oltrarno, and it’s open this August from 5:30-midnight daily. come here quite a bit for a quick pizza with Nico or with friends. You can also book on The Fork.
- Berberè pizzeria in Piazza de’ nerli will remain open this August. During the week they offer an advantageous lunch offer of 10€ for a pizza of the week, beer, coffee. You can also just got for an aperitif, spritzes will set you back only €4,50 with a selection of curated cicchetti. Open daily, M-F 7pm-midnight. Lunch also on the weekends.
- Il Santo Bevitore & Il Santino, this popular dinner spot is located on via di santo spirito (the bakery is on Via sant’agostino instead) and features an ever-changing menu that treats Tuscan food like its creative inspiration. I always go for their interesting cheese plates. It’s almost always crowded with visitors so recommendations are highly recommended. They will be closed from the 14th to the 19th. Open 12:30-2:30, 7:30pm-11pm. Via di Santo Spirito, 64/66, reservations: tel +39 055 211264. [email protected], website.
- Enoteca Pitti Gola, when it comes to quality wine bars in the city, this is your spot. They don’t need to shout their greatness from Florence’s rooftops, they have a pretty respected following from those who already know them. You can come for a drink (I love their Franciacorta/Lambrusco options, especially because they seek out smaller producers) or for dinner. Reservations highly recommended as they only have seven tables. Outside seating also available. Open daily from6pm. phone: +39 055 212704 or contact them here.
- Osteria Santo Spirito – this simple, popular trattoria on the corner of the Sant’Agostino and the square is a favorite of my family (zucchini and parmesan risotto) and after a good last experience there, I do recommend it as a fun place for lunch or dinner. They will be open for dinner all of August. Call ahead and make a reservation for the terrace. address: Piazza Santo Spirito, 16/R.
- Santarosa Bistrot. This has long been a personal favorite of mine for coffee, a spritz, club sandwiches or fresh pasta for lunch. They are open all day which is really nice and it lies adjacent to a public park which means you could ideally have your meal under a tree should you so wish, so essentially it is pretty darn perfect. They are closed this August between 15, 16th from 8am until midnight. address: Lungarno di Santa Rosa, 50142 Firenze FI. Open 8am-12am.
- Gelateria della Passera –I could hardly leave out my gelato local, this small place has served its fair amount of gelato and is the brilliant brainchild of a woman, One Miss Cinzia Otri. I love that she uses coffee from the next door caffe degli artigiani and my favorite flavor of all time here has to be the la Crema ai sette profumi (creme of seven flavors) which is my go-to gusto after dinner. address: via dello Sprone 16, Firenze
- Le Volpe e L’Uva, another favorite wine bar hidden behind Ponte Vecchio, the oldest bridge in the city, in a quaint little square on the Oltrarno side of town. Ciro and the rest of the staff are very knowledgeable about wines and openly support local, small producers. The terrace does get popular the summer so call and book ahead. Open this August, 11am-3pm, 6-9pm daily. They will be closed from August the 10th until the 20th. address: Piazza dei Rossi, 1R, 50125 Firenze FI. Call +39 055 2398132.
- L’Brindellone, my go-to spot for authentic and chill Tuscan eats did me a huge favor and decided to remain open for the month. While the decor is decidedly “no frills” this spot is wonderful for larger groups who want to dive into some local cuisine while not breaking the bank. I’m a fan of their tagliata and ribollita (a typical Tuscan dish). They are also open for lunch with an affordable menu. Open all of August, closed only on Mondays. Tue – Sun from 12:30-2:30pm. 7:30 – 11pm. address: Piazza Piattellina, 10, 50124 Firenze. Phone +39 055 217879.
- Il Carduccio, my favorite organic restaurant for lunch is constantly impressing me with their variety in healthy cuisine. The space, however small, is quite pretty, with just a few tables offering curious diners the chance to try some farm-to-table organic goodies from a local farm. Everything is seasonal and fresh, go for a spiraled zucchini salad with goat cheese or one of their daily-changing crostini with hummus. Closed this August from the 10th to the 24th. address: Sdrucciolo de’ Pitti, 10, 50125 Firenze. +39 055 238 2070. Open 8am-7pm Monday-Thurday. Friday & Saturday 8am-10pm. Sunday 10-5pm.
- Trattoria Sabatino is a neighbourhood favorite for many of us around San Frediano. They serve simple, honest Tuscna fare for great prices and hand type their menu every single day. Ilaria and her family are one of the reasons I adore Florence. They will be closed from August 10th to the 21st but otherwise open! Mon-Friday for lunch and dinner 12-2:30pm, 7:15-10pm. +39 055225955.
- Osteria Tripperia Il Magazzino Ristorante, just around the corner from our house is the cutest piazza in the city, it’s not just me being biased, you’d be hard pressed to meet anyone who doesn’t smile when they think of piazza della passera (for a variety of reasons). When it comes to authentic Tuscan food, this is your spot, don’t be scared to go for offal! The polpette di lampredotto are what they are known best for. Open Wednesday to Sunday 12-3pm, 7:30-11pm. Piazza della Passera.
- Trattoria 4 leone is one of the historic restaurants of the Oltrarno serving classic Tuscan fare and luckily they are open for the entirety of August. They are open every day from 12.00 to 15.00 for lunch
- and 7:00 to 11:00 for dinner. +39 055 218562
- La Sorbettiera, look on any credible list of top gelateria of Florence and you’ll find them on their list. Not because they paid anyone off, but because their gelato truly is some of the best you can get in Tuscany. I was personally won over by their salted caramel. They are open all of August except for the 15th, 16th and 17th. Open 12:30pm-12am. Sunday: 11AM–1PM, 3PM–12AM. address: Piazza Torquato Tasso, 11/red, 50124 Firenze.
- Alla Vecchia Bettola, you’d think I was obsessed with piazza tasso, but you would be right. I adore this humble quarter, a place so rich in great food and still not truly discovered. Alla Vecchia Bettola is a popular spot across the square, they offer terrace seating and a Tuscan menu. If you’re into pork, try their version served with figs. They are closed from the 9th until the 19th. Otherwise open Tues-Sat, 12-2:30pm, 7-10:30pm. address: 34r Via Luigi Ariosto, 50124, Florence, Italy. Call +39 055224158.
- Ristorante Trattoria Angiolino, an Oltrarno trattoria that serves delicious home cooking in my local neighborhood. I like the atmosphere and the fact that they can accommodate bigger groups. Open all of August, they are closed Sundays. Open daily 12:30-3:30pm, 7-11pm. They have to confirm when they might close for vacation this August but when I called this late July, they weren’t sure yet. Anyway, call ahead! address: Via di Santo Spirito, 36 R, Firenze. Phone: +39 055 239 8976
- Ditta Artigianale, coffee bar enthusiasts like myself are pleased to note that yes your caffeine is safe this August. Both Ditta’s will remain open which means my supply of cold brew with coconut milk can continue. Open 8am-9pm. Praise jesus. address: Via dello Sprone, 3/5/R, 50125 Firenze.
- Buonerìa: a wonderful spot to enjoy Neapolitan pizza in Florence in a family-friendly ambiance. It’s a great place to head to after a dip in the Pavoniere pool in Cascine, they have space for large groups and a nice beer garden. Pizza is really nice too, they are open all of August and on Ferragosto, from 8pm-1pm. address: Via del Fosso Macinante, 4. 12:30-3pm, 7:30pm-late.
- Manifattura Tabacchi: This former tobacco factory in the Cascine area of Florence reopened for the summer and is an exciting new spot to see a more contemporary side to the city of Florence. The area called B9 is together an arts space, bar, open-air cinema, concert space, small bites. The bistro will be closed only on the 15th & 16th of August otherwise it will be open from 9am-1am in the evening! address: via delle Cascine 33, Florence.
- Ditta Artigianale, yes this is the original location of Francesco Sanape’s brilliant cafe. Located on a constantly busy street in the heart of the historical center. You can also enjoy the free WIFI here too. Via dei Neri, 32/R, 50122 Firenze.
- Torcicoda, one part restaurant, pizzeria and trattoria in the Santa Croce neighborhood, I am a huge fan of their pizza (their restaurant is nice too) and luckily for you guys (and well. me too) it happens to be open all of August except for the 15th & 16th. Closed Mondays. Hours 7-10pm. address: Via Torta, 5/red, 50122 Firenze. Call +39 055 2654329.
- Berberè pizzeria on Via Dei Benci will remain open this August along with the sister property in San Frediano. During the week they offer an advantageous lunch offer of 10€ for a pizza of the week, beer, coffee. You can also just got for an aperitif, spritzes will set you back only €4,50 with a selection of curated cicchetti. Open daily for lunch and dinner.
- The Fishing Lab Alle Murate, fish and smaller options in a space where you will dine with historical frescoes and Roman ruins.
- Open 12-2:30pm 7:30-11pm. address: Via del Proconsolo, 16r, 50122 Firenze. Call +39 055 240618. Open daily, 10am-12am.
Santa Maria Novella
- Trattoria 13 gobbi,I consider this spot to be a real find even if you’ll find yourself dining amongst other tourists. Which honestly, people should really get used to as places like this are popular for good reason. I come here for the steak “tagliata.” Open this August except between the 10th and the 16th. 12-3pm, 7-11pm. Via del Porcellana, 9R, Firenze, Call +39 055 284015
- Enoteca Vigna Nuova, one of the best wine bars in town is conveniently located near the train station towards Piazza Goldoni. They always get it right. Could not recommend this place more. Open all of August. address: Via dei Federighi, 3/R, 50123 Firenze FI. Open daily 12pm-12am.
- Vivo Restaurant, The city’s beloved seafood restaurant promises a daily catch from the Tuscan coast (Orbetello), here you can slurp (or scoop) out fresh oysters, dine on raw red shrimp or ask for the pasta dish of the day. I’m a huge fan, while the place itself tends to be a bit modern for my tastes with a very noisy interior, the food more than makes up for the rest. Open August except Mondays. Open 12-2:45pm, 7:30-10_30/11pm. address: Largo Pietro Annigoni, 9. Call +39 333 182 4183.
- Cibreo, normally the Cibreo trifecta in Sant’Ambrogio is closed for the entirety of August but I noticed via FB that they are still offering events and deals at Teatro del Sale and even the Cibleo, asian-fusion offshoot. Well worth a visit for truly delicious hometown cuisine. address: Via dei Macci, 111/r, 50122 Firenze FI, Italy.
- La Luna pizzeria, just talking about this place makes me smile. While the pizza isn’t the best in town, you have Giovanni Santarpia to thank for that, they do serve a decent pie and offer gluten-free options. Perfect for a casual night-out with friends and they have a terrace. Open all of August. address: Via Gioberti Vincenzo, 93, Firenze, reservations, call +39 055 663810. Open 12-3pm, 7-12am.
- Caffetteria Piansa Gilberti. One of the most notable coffee shops in the Beccaria area, this is the place to find single origin espresso with a story and passionate coffee-experts, not to mention a light lunch menu. They will be closed on August 15th Address: Via Gilberti 51/r Open Monday to Friday 7am-4pm and Saturday 7:30pm – 3:30pm. Closed Sundays
San Lorenzo neighbourhood & San Marco
- Mercato San Lorenzo: “Primo Piano” the good thing about the market is that it never closes, at least not the primo piano. In San Lorenzo, it has been nothing short of a success story, a gourmet Italian food market which Eataly over on via martelli couldn’t seem to manage to do. Despite the weird temperature balance inside (hot in summer, cold in winter) and crowds, it still remains a place that isn’t just wheelchair accessible, but literally has something for everyone. Pizza, fresh pasta, seafood, meat plates, cheese, vegan burgers, lampredotto, wine bar, gelato etc. Open 10am-1pm daily. address. Via dell’Ariento.
- Ristorante Accademia is a beloved historical haunt in Piazza San Marco serving up traditional Tuscan fare near one of the city’s most underrated museums (San Marco, oh yes and Michelangelo’s David is located nearby too!). They also have a wide array of vegetarian and vegan options. Open 11am-5pm, 6-11pm.
- La Ménagère, one part restaurant, one part bar, one part cafe with free WIFI, one part flower shop, one part jazz club. Yes a lot happens simultaneously in this cool concept spot in San Lorenzo but you won’t find a more instagrammable location in Florence. Personally, I am more a fan of their cafe and bar (especially those exquisite desserts). address: Via de’ Ginori, 8, 50123 Firenze. Open 9am-Midnight, closed Mondays.
- My Sugar gelateria, yes gelato is officially a food group and I could hardly write about what’s open in August without mentioning the majority of my diet during this period, sweet Italian gelato. Owners Alberto Bati his wife Julia and sister Deborah are some of the most passionate, hard-working gelato artisans you’ll ever meet. Wonderful sorbet (get the melon!) options as well. Open 12:30-9pm daily. Closed on Sundays. address: Via de’Ginori, 49/red, 50123 Firenze, Phone: 393 069 6042.
San Niccolo neighbourhood
- The Arno beach is a cool spot for a sundowner cocktail overlooking the River Arno by the tower San Niccolo (which is open during the summer to club!). It’s pretty much a kiosk this year but it’s a nice place to get a drink and watch the sun go down. address: Piazza Giuseppe Poggi, Florence, Italy. 10am-1:30pm.
- Beppe Fioraia, one of the few places where you can dine al fresco in a pretty garden in the center of Florence. It’s just off the main road that runs from San Niccolo to Piazzale Michelangelo, you’ll find Beppe tucked away in the entrance to a local park. They are well-known for their enormous tagliere (meat & cheese boards) and pizza. Call ahead to book a spot in the garden, reservations essential. Open for the month of August. address: Via dell’Erta Canina, 6r, 50125 Firenze. 12:30 – 2:30, 6:30pm-12am daily. Call +39 055 234 7681.
Just outside of The Historical Center of Florence (but still worthy of a taxi)
- Melloo is one of Florence’s newer openings and a great reason to hop on the tram and head towards Novoli. This small but savvy restaurant serves up fine music, craft beer and food – curated pizza/hamburger options and some of the best sweet potato fries I’ve ever had. They also offer the chance to bring your old vinyl records in exchange for food credit! Open daily 7-11pm. Call +39 3337581154. Address: Via Luigi Gordigiani, 4R, 50127 Firenze FI
- Caffè Desiderio is a great restaurant in nearby Settignano under the helm of Michele and Francesca, two very kind people that source quality ingredients (they also have a kickass burger) that I discovered thanks to Emiko Davies. Get the local meat and cheese platter! They also have an impressive wine list. address: Piazza Niccolò Tommaseo, 5r, 50135 Settignano FI, Telefono: 055 697687. This August they will be closed from the 9th to the 25th otherwise they are open for dinner service. Hot tip* go to the circolo just a few doors down for a spritz before or after!
- Coquinarius Fiesole: Since opening I have been here many times with Nico and friends and we absolutely love their beautiful terrace overlooking the city and they’ve added a lovely garden area up top for extra outdoor seating. Go for the delicious primi (first course pasta dishes) and roasted meats. Great wine options as well. They are open this August for dinner and also lunch Saturdays and Sunday. Via Mantellini, 2b, 50014 Fiesole FI. Open Mon-Thursday 6:30pm-12am and Sat-Sun12pm-12am.
- Trattoria “da Burde”, When one thinks of sticking to traditions when it comes to Tuscan food, likely they have visited a place just outside of Florence — Da Burde, the brainchild of Andrea and Paolo Gori. A culinary institution since 1901, here you can dig into mouth-watering dishes like bistecca alla fiorentina, il peposo, il cacciucco, il baccalà alla livornese, l’acquacotta alla maremmana and much more. They will be closed from August 8th until the 23rd address: Via Pistoiese, 6/R, 50145 Firenze. +39 Tel. 055/317206. Open for lunch, dinner on Fridays, Saturday lunch only, Closed Sundays.
- Anconella Gardens is a newer outdoor dining space open until September with access on via di Villamagna 39/d where you can eat, listen to jazz, do yoga and a lot more. See what’s on the program here.
- Ristorante 588 at Borgo i Vicelli, this place close to my heart is an easy 25-minute drive from Florence in the comune di Bagno a Ripoli and is everything you want in a place. An outside eatery set in the backdrop of a quaint Tuscan agriturismo, we’ve dined here many a time poolside, enjoying an array of farm-to-table delights. This is the kind of place that doesn’t make you wear flowy tops to hide bloat, Chef Andrea’s menu is more than memorable every single time — imagine an array of vegetables with a soft tomato broth, or the most perfect had-moon ravioli stuffed with fresh mozzarella cheese and topped with a basil leaf so fragrant Bocelli would have teared up. Open all of August for loght lunch poolside, or for dinner, Sundays are their #domenicainthehills lunch! closed Tuesdays. address: Via Roma, 588 – 50012 Bagno a Ripoli, , Tel: +39 055 699003.
- For another pool/lunch option consider heading to a lovingly restored villa, Relais Villa Olmo Food & Wine Resort is only a 20-minute drive from Florence in Impruneta and serves a fabulous lunch menu under the helm of Chef Alessio Leporatti. They also offering yoga poolside every Thursday in August.
- My friends over at Querceto di Castellina will be hosting another edition of dining in the vineyard on August 15th (Ferragosto!) in collaboration with he menu was sublime thanks to Ristorante Albergaccio di Castellina. Email [email protected] for info & to book.
Make sure to check out this list of creative outdoor options (including a truly stunning place to have an aperitivo during sunset in Florence).
Click on the google map (or here) to save this list on your phone!