santo spirito firenze

Why I love the ‘other side of the river’ in Florence

florence italy

When I was a student in 2005, the ‘other side of the river’  or ‘oltrarno’ to the locals was considered a scary place for us young Americani. All I knew about Piazza Santo Spirito was that drug addicts liked to hang out on the steps and that beyond the Ponte Vecchio bridge lay a very different world than that surrounding the Duomo and Piazza Santa Croce. That memory almost always makes me laugh especially now that I spend the majority of my time in the ‘oltrarno’  working, eating – going out or even just getting lost.

When I hear people complain about the amount of tourists in Florence — all I say is well, why not head over to the other side of the river? Sure Palazzo Pitti and Piazzale Michelangelo will be full of those looking for that perfect ‘shot,’ yet it still feels a heck of a lot different from Via dei Servi on a Saturday afternoon.

santo spirito firenze

What is it about this place that makes it so special? Well a number of reasons, and if you cross the bridges of Ponte Vecchio, Ponte trinita, or Ponte alla Carraia  immediately you will feel the difference in atmosphere . A calmer, tranquility is what first comes to mind and a true essence of what its like to really live in Italy. Or at least my Italy. The one that is filled with more Italians than tourists.

Walk past the famous Palazzo Pitti and Boboli gardens and lose yourself on Via Romana, a bustling street full of artisan shops such as Tabasce, L’Abito che Vorrei & Twins and stop at Tealicious or Oronero for tea. I wrote about a December afternoon strolling down this street and at least a few times a month, I find myself back there chatting with various store owners about the annoying rain and attempt to avoid getting hit by buses flying down this tiny street.

There is a lot to see over here. Tons of artisans have made this area their base and on tiny side streets you can spot craftsman working on their livelihood —  it makes you think there is still something to the dying brand ‘Made in Italy.‘  I love spying on people {yes I just admitted that} and this is the perfect place to do so. Actually I think spying/staring is a national pastime in Italy and our ‘3 second rule’ rarely applies in most occasions. Everyone likes to a good long look at you. Perche no? 

National Geographic Traveler made this walking itinerary of the area which is a good guide, other wise you can check the outdated, yet in english Oltrarno website. Of course we mustn’t forget about food or this wouldn’t be a blog post by Georgette, would it? 

My top choices to eat in the oltrarno:


  • Il Chicco di CaffèVia della Chiesa 16r (not far from Piazza Santo Spirito). This is a small non-fancy trattoria where many locals come for delicious, traditional Tuscan cuisine and I love it. Perfect for those looking to mingle with locals and don’t’ want to break the bank. Great value & great food! Open Mon-Sat, only for lunch.
  • Mama’s Bakery, Via della Chiesa 34/r. Just down the street from Chicco, this is the BEST place for bagels and everything an expat might be missing from home – think brunch. My favorite is the club sandwich, yummm – bacon! Open Mon-Fri 8-5pm, Saturday 9-3pm.  Check out my friends Kate & Rob’s post about it here

  • Gusta PizzaVia Maggio, 46r. Small tiny joint close to Piazza Santo Spirito and a favorite among students & locals alike. Why? Because the pizza is damn good (sorry mom) and cheap. My recommendation is to get a pizza and bottle of wine to go and enjoy it under the steps of the Santo Spirito church on a nice night. 
  • La CasalingaVia dè Michelozzi, 9R. Next to Gusta Pizza –  a really affordable and yummy traditional Tuscan trattoria. Make reservations and enjoy the house wine, I really like this place. 

Mid-Range – Splurge

  • Il Santo GraalVia Romana, 70R. I discovered this awesome restaurant because of my good friends who live in this area and I am super grateful to them for it! Tradition meets innovative – the decor happens to be just as beautiful as the food. You can splurge on a tasting menu, don’t be scared to try a non Tuscan wine with your meal ;-). 

  • Alla Vecchia Bettola, Viale Vasco Pratolini 3-5-7. (Piazza Tasso area). My friend Annie used to talk about this place and for good reason, it’s out-of-the-way location may seem daunting but it’s worth it! Great meat dishes and pasta, I would make reservations as the interior isn’t very big. 
  • ‘O MunacielloVia Maffia, 31. I was just here the other night and though the interior felt a bit like the oven where they make their pizzas, it’s still well worth going. Inside it is as if Napoli {or what we would like to think of it} exploded, in the entryway stands a creepy, yet affable drunk statue who I am assuming is this  ‘Munaciello’. They are known for napolitano pizza and seafood – this is a nice place to take people, don’t forget to make a reservation!

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